For some, Black hair is an expression of identity and culture. It’s a representation of history and carries a deep emotional significance. Even though Black hair is a symbol of empowerment, resistance, and celebration, it has also been used as a tool of oppression. Historically, for some, Black hair has carried a profound symbolism. Different types of hairstyles like cornrows, dreadlocks, twists, afros, bantu knots, and more all have historic connections to Black pride, culture, religion, and history.
For example, in Ancient African communities, hair was more than just style. Throughout the continent, a person’s hairstyle could tell you a lot about who they were and where they came from. Braids and other intricate hairstyles were historically worn to signify tribal identification, marital status, age, religion, wealth, and rank in society. During the enslavement of Blacks, braids (particularly cornrows) were used as a tool for the enslaved to escape, as cornrows were used as a map to plan out escape routes. Fast forward to the “Black power movement,” when the natural afro became a popular statement of power, pride, resistance, and a way to reclaim their roots.
Black hair care has also gone through its own renaissance with haircare products popping up left and right. But with so many products and advice in the market, it’s hard to tell which one we should use or leave alone.
Don’t worry, we have you covered with these six things to stop doing to your hair. If you know what to stop doing, then you can have an ide what you should start doing.
1. Excessively manipulating their hair with harsh chemicals
Hair care products can have a ton of hard-to-pronounce ingredients in them. Here are a few that you need to be leary of and test them on your own hair.
Benzene
This is a toluene, which can damage the respiratory system, irritate the skin, and cause developmental damage in fetuses. See “Toluene” for more information.
Diethanolamine (DEA) Triethanolamine (TEA)
These stabilize the pH of hair products, and are common allergens and eye irritants.
Formaldehyde
Formaldehyde is another preservative and extremely irritating to the skin and eyes. It is a known animal carcinogen, and may increase cancer risk for humans as well. Keep in mind that certain preservatives release formaldehyde! So by extension, also look out for:
- Diazolidinyl urea
- DMDM hydantoin
- Glyoxal
- Imidazolidinyl urea
- Polyoxymethylene urea
- Quaternium-15
- Sodium hydroxymethylglycinate
Fragrance
This is a catch-all ingredient. If the manufacturer put this on the bottle, it means they don’t want to tell you what else is in the product (and Fragrance is often a term used to hide Phthalates as an ingredient.) Note: at NaturAll Club we only scent our hair products with all-natural, phthalate free fragrances.
Isopropyl Alcohol
This does its job of stripping away oils from your scalp a little too well, leaving your hair dry and brittle. Ethanol Alcohol, Ethyl Alcohol, Isopropanol Alcohol, Propyl Alcohol, and SD Alcohol are also known to do this.
Methylisothiazolinone
A common preservative in hair products, linked to lung toxicity, allergic reactions, and possible neurotoxicity.
Mineral Oil and Petroleum
These are petroleum products that coat your hair and scalp, but they can also suffocate them! These ingredients can cause acne, hindered skin respiration, imbalanced oil levels in your scalp, and skin irritation.
Parabens
Parabens are xenoestrogens, included in shampoos as a preservative. They can disrupt hormones and even pose a cancer risk. You’ll see them labeled on hair products as propylparaben, benzylparaben, etc.
Phthalates
These were banned from use in toy manufacturing in California, 2009, because of links between them and cancer. However, they are still often used in hair products. They are often a hidden ingredient in Fragrance.
Retinol
This is very common in skin and beauty products, but has potential associations with developmental and reproductive toxicity. While it is usually safe to use, it might not be safe to use during pregnancy.
Retinyl Palmitate
Considered a gentler version of retinol, but it is often added to personal care products in greater concentrations than retinol in order to be effective. It still has potential associations with developmental and reproductive toxicity, and has been found to enhance photocarcinogenicity (heightening the risk of cancer when exposed to UV rays.)
Sulfates
Sulfates strip oil and dirt out of your hair so well, they deplete the naturally produced sebum that moisturizes your hair. While sulfates can be beneficial for hair that gets oily quickly or has looser curls, they’re usually a no-no for naturally curly hair. Common sulfates: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
Synthetic colors
Synthetic colors such as D&C Red 27 or FD&C Blue 1, are derived from petroleum or coal sources. These synthetic colors are suspected to be carcinogenic, skin irritants, and linked to ADHD in children. The European Union has banned the use of these ingredients, which is a big red flag.
2. Excessive heat styling
Applying heat to Black hair, while possible, requires extreme caution as it can easily damage the hair due to its naturally delicate structure. This includes flat ironing or curling irons. If you’re unsure, consult a professional stylist familiar with styling Black hair.
Key points to remember when applying heat to Black hair:
Use heat protectant:
Always apply a heat protectant spray or serum before styling with heat tools to create a barrier against damage.
Lower heat settings:
Opt for lower heat settings on your styling tools, as high temperatures can severely damage Black hair.
Section hair properly:
Divide your hair into small sections to ensure even heat distribution and prevent excessive heat exposure to any one area.
Minimize styling time:
Limit the amount of time you spend styling with heat tools to reduce potential damage.
Consider hair type:
Different textures within Black hair may require different heat settings and styling techniques
3. Tight hairstyles without proper care.
Pulling hair too tightly into braids, ponytails, or buns without considering the tension on the scalp can cause hair loss.
When going into any braids, weaves, twists, wigs, etc. for an extended amount of time with dry damaged hair you will come out of those styles with guess what? Dry, damaged hair. Before any alternative styling involving the use of extension hair, your hair should be clean and deep conditioned with a quality moisturizing conditioner (if you think your hair needs a protein treatment before installation, it is not the time for a “protective” style).
Alternative styles are best suited for those whose hair is in a healthy, hydrated state. Those with weak, thirsty, brittle or damaged hair should avoid these styling options at all costs.
4. Ignoring moisture needs.
Black hair naturally tends to be drier, so neglecting to use moisturizing products regularly can lead to dryness and breakage.
Remember, hydrated hair is protected hair.
According to hair experts, “Hydrated hair, which is when hair is the strongest, is when the hair is best protected.” Acquiring hydrated hair requires a thorough regimen of cleansing and conditioning with water-soluble, water-based products with botanically-based ingredients.
Using traditional “protective” styling as a means of protecting your hair from the elements won’t matter if you’re not keeping your hair hydrated regularly.
5. Comparing your hair routine to others.
This includes some of the hair influencers and celebrities you follow. Pay close attention to those celebrities that say you “have to use this” or “this is the only product we should use…” Every person’s hair is different–even if you fall into the 4C or 4A or whatever hair texture category you fall into. Like many things in life, what may work for you may not work for the next person. So it’s up to you to decide.
This life of comparison doesn’t just happen overnight. It creeps up on you after awhile of studying and liking a person’s hair or hairstyle without acknowledging the unique beauty of your own.
Comparing your hair or yourself is just bad anyway. It can lead to:
Low self-esteem: Comparing yourself to others can make you feel inadequate or “less than”.
Anxiety, depression, and chronic stress: Comparing yourself to others can lead to a cycle of negative self-talk, which can make it harder to focus on your strengths.
Unhappiness: Comparing yourself to others can make you feel unhappy.
6. Cancelling products just because someone else doesn’t like them.
“You still using that? We canceled them!” is what one of my friends said to me when I started to pull out a jar of popular edge gel when we were getting ready to go out. I then proceeded to ask her why “we” canceled them and she couldn’t give a definitive reason why. She used language like, “I heard…” and “somebody told me…”, but she never actually had a real reason that I could trace back.
Sometimes, we as people need to be more investigative with our own information and research it with credible sources and then make a decision for ourselves, not just based on what someone heard. There could be a number of reasons for negative press on a product including competition, the company may be getting ready to go public, or even a potential sell to a major corporation. Either way, it’s good to do your own research before you flat-out stop using something that has been good for you.
